Happy Gardening...

We have created this blog to keep everybody up to date and informed about the Paradise 4th Produce a Plenty Project. We would love everyone to add pics to the blog so email them to me with a description or story to go along with it and I will update the blog so everyone else can enjoy the progress and fun experiences of the garden. My email is barrelracingbina@yahoo.com. Thanks Sabrina Whalen

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Garden update

At last check, the Bishop has plans to spread the compost and plow the garden site early next week. Justin Summers indicated that he thought he could till the site before Sat. If all that comes to pass, my plans are to set up the garden site with row markers Sat morning. The plan is to invite those who would like to join us in planting at noon. The plan is to have Alan Kent supervise the planting of the onions and Steve Woolf and myself will help with the potatoes

I will cut the potatoes into planting size and have them ready to plant. My roto-tiller has a furrowing attachment and I will see if it will make a good planting row. Basically planting the potatoes will involve placing some bone meal under where the potato set will be placed, pushing the set firmly into the soil with the eyes up and covering the potato a couple of inches deep in the furrow. Gardening experts suggest that potato sets be spaced about 15 inches to a foot and a half apart. As the potato plant begins to grow we will then keep "hilling up" the plant so that the new growing potatoes remain covered and deeper in the furrow.

Marc Anderson at Anderson Garden and seed sold us onion plants that are very large when they mature. He suggested a spacing of about six inches between. Alan Kent will show use the proper procedure to plant. Those coming to plant may want to bring a hoe.

It has been recommended that the YM/YW assign teams to each of the five garden plots. Individual families are welcome to select a specific garden or respond to calls to work in the garden as they come up.

Make sure you review the tentative work assignments at the garden sent out earlier. A reminder notice will also be sent for those who may not have saved it. Remember in gardening, everything is cast in cardboard not concrete.
Now is the time to get on board for a great ride. This project will be a powerful force for good in our ward and community.

Saturday, April 25, 2009

Weather Update...

Well...today as I was cleaning my house and daydreaming about getting outside to work in my yard, I passed a window and noticed that it was SNOWING outside. What??? Snowing outside, now how was I supposed to get all the projects done in my yard that I had been putting off all week to do on the weekend. Oh well, I guess that's spring weather for you in Cache Valley. So I guess we aren't going to be plowing our garden any time soon...Maybe this was a good thing because I needed to be studying for finals anyway, not enjoying the weather.

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Any takers…

Hey out there! It has been suggested that we have an official project photographer and/or historian to chronicle the events of this monumental undertaking.  Any takers?  It could be a committee.  We could have pictures and/or videos of each step.  We could have human interest stories.  I think it's a great idea.  We need to get hoppin' though as deep tilling/plowing will probably start next week.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Garden spot...

Well I hope to keep up on taking pics of the progress of the garden. I had some extra time today, and the weather was great, so I talked my husband into taking a walk with me around the block. It actually ended up being around the entire town, but it was great. We walked past the garden site at Brother Lyman Jensen's house. So here is a pic of what it looks like today.

Garden Site Update

Things will be moving swiftly very soon. Make sure you and your teams are ready to participate. A tentative schedule is included. Keep in mind with gardens that everything is set in cardboard not concrete and be prepared to adjust. However, preparation precedes power.


 

Tentative schedule

  • Tuesday April 21 Round up sites
  • Deep till and or plow after April 25
  • Fri May 1 Garden set up. Signs put up, irrigation pipe set up, rows marked off
  • Planting Plan on being available every Sat, to be involved in some planting or preparation activity
    • Sat. May 2nd first planting of onion garden and potato gardens at the Jensen Site.
    • Sat. May 9th First planting of corn, both plots. Three more successive corn plantings every two weeks are planned.
    • Sat May 16th planting pole beans and laying down of black plastic to warm the soil for planting squash and tomatoes. Pole bean planting will include setting up 4 twenty five foot lengths of wire paneling.
    • Friday May 29th and Sat May 30th planting winter squash, tomatoes and cucumbers

  • Weeding and fertilizing
    • The garden site coordinator will arrange for timely watering, coordinating with weeding and harvest.
    • Walk behind roto tilling between rows will be done weekly. Those assigned to roto tilling should coordinate with within row weeders and sprinkling schedule
    • Within row weeding and thinning will be done weekly as well. Fertilizing dates will be assigned to the within row weeding teams. The groups assigned to each garden should set up their schedule for weeding.. Make sure you check with the sprinkler schedule and roto tiller.
    • As the need arises insect management may be needed
  • Processing
    • The Relief Society will be kept informed on the ripening progress when produce is ready to process, teams will be assigned to do so as a group at designates sites. Pole beans will probably be canned or made available for members to use fresh. Corn can be used fresh as needed. When sufficient quantities are available freezing processes will be held at designated sites. Tomatoes, peppers and onions can be processed as salsa, tomato juice or canned tomatoes.
  • Harvesting and storage
    • Garden site coordinators will keep everyone abreast through the blog site, Sunday program, mass e-mailing, Friendshipper and home and visiting teachers as to how and when potatoes, onions and squash should be harvested. Harvest dates will be establilshed when necessary. Experts will teach us how and when to harvest, how and where to store


 

Catch the vision! Join in! Invite friends and neighbors to join! Be constantly aware of who has needs and would benefit from any of the programs Brother Gill

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Simplification and expansion of gardens revision4/15/2009



After visiting Lyman Jensen and seeing the garden site he is making available, we are suggesting some changes in the master plan to simplify and expand our resources. Lyman has a plot that can be utilized which is about 65 feet wide and 330 feet ling. We have decided to use this block for most of the ward garden. There is a place for a permanent irrigation pipe and the land is centrally located and easily accessible.

Tentative plans are to have four and possibly five sections or gardens.

Garden 1
Pole beans, cucumbers and winter squash. 60 feet by 30 feet, 100 feet of pole beans 50 feet of cucumbers, and 35 hills of winter squash.

Garden 2
Onions: 12 rows 40 feet by 60 feet
200 feet each of red onions, white onions and yellow onions for a total of 600 feet

Garden 3

Potatoes: 20 rows 60 feet by 60 feet. 200 feet each of Pontiac, Norland, Kennebec, Yukon Gold, and Sandy Wiebe's favorite, for a total of 1000 feet


Garden 4
Tomatoes and peppers. Eight rows of tomatoes for a total 90 plants two rows of peppers for 40 plants

Possible Garden 5
Corn. 30 rows of late maturing corn and 10 rows of early maturing corn for a total of 2000 feet.
You might want to keep your eyes on this plot and watch and help it grow and prosper. Round up and tilling will be shortly upon us and planting is not far behind. Many hands and hearts will be needed to make this truly the Garden of Eden, West. You, your families, friends and community members will be blessed beyond their wildest expectations if they put their might mind and strength into this powerful force for good. May God bless us all and thank you all for your commitments and support, Brother Gill

Thursday, April 9, 2009

The more the merrier...


Just wanted to let you know that the Paradise 2nd ward has joined us on the blog...welcome. And let us know if you have any gardening advice, we love anything about gardening.

Monday, April 6, 2009

Where to find the tomato stakes...

This post is in answere to the question of where to find the tomato stakes...So when I was at Walmart the other day, I saw some tomato stakes there. And I'm sure that they have them at the nursery too, but I'm not sure. However I will do some homework and find out for sure this week. I'm sure that our tomato plants can wait a bit longer for these stakes. And if anyone else see's these stakes anywhere else, then leave a comment about the where and price's if you happen to see that. There are more pics to look at about the tomato stake if you click on the link on the right hand side and down a few clicks. It is called the tomato stake site...Thanks for everyone's input.

Pre-Planting Season Tips...

Many seeds will not germinate in cold soil and in fact may rot. One tip master gardeners do is place clear or black plastic over the area to be planted a week or so before planting if the soil is too cold to germinate. This gives you several weeks jump by planting in a warm soil bed. Some large hard seeds can speed germination by soaking them overnoght. these include corn and beans. Another good resource that many gardeners enjoy is the two early Saturday morning garden talk shows. One is on KSL called the Green House the other is on KVNU 610 locally hosted by Marc Anderson of Anderson Feed and Seed In buying vegetable seeds you cannot beat the wide variety of bulk seeds available at Anderson's. Another plus is that Marc and his staff are quite knowledgeable and they have planting guides and variety recommendation sheets which are very helpful. Be aware that experts are predicting shortages in and price increase on vegetable seeds this year. Get yours early while the weather is crappy. There are shorter lines. Some varieties are already sold out and others are in short supply. Make sure you store your seeds in a secure environment. Last year I left mine in my garage and the mice had a feast before I could plant some of them. Some gardeners store their seeds and packets in glass jars. This is a good idea,as they wont get wet or eaten by mice and you can see them at a glance. Don't forget USU extension service. They have a wealth of materials and resources which are very good and directed at our local climate. They can also put you in touch with a list of Master gardeners who are highly trained gardeners I our area who have taken on a commitment to provide a certain number of service hours each year. They can be wonderful resources. Remember not to get too anxious in working your soil to plant. If you till wet soil, particularly if you have clay, you will have unmanageable clods all year long to contend with. A good test is to grab a large handful of the soil and squeeze it into a ball and drop it. If it crumbles in your hand or breaks easily when it is dropped, go ahead and work the soil. If it forms a solid, wet ball and doesn't break when it falls, you are too early While manure and amendments are wonderful for gardens, they need to decompose and mix in with the soil. If you apply it and integrate it now, it may be "too hot" high in Nitrogen and other chemicals and will stunt or kill the seeds and plants you plant. Fall time is the time to work in organic material. Carefully aged compost can be used with caution during the gardening season. Our expert in residence in this his area is Floyd Faucette. Speak with him about more details and your own specific concerns.

Another way to support your Tomato Plants...

The Tomato Stake is the best way to support your growing tomatoes! Easier to use than metal cages, stronger than bamboo, and won't rot or splinter like wood stakes.


The Tomato stake is... ...simple. It’s easy to set up and grow perfect tomatoes in your backyard garden. ...easy. The built in twistie-ties make supportingtomato plants easy and fun....Strong. It stands five (5) feet tall, can hold up to 45 lbs of weightand won’t fall over on windy days....better than every other staking product on the market, including metal cages or those flimsy bamboo stakes.

Selecting Healthy Plants for Your House or Garden...

As you enter the nursery or garden center, you look around at the selection of plants. You may know the kind of plant you are looking for, or you may just browse until you find the flower or plant that rings your bell. That is usually the easiest part of your decision. Now you must decide which specimen, out of the dozens on the bench, you want to take home with you.
There are several aspects that you should consider in making your decision. The prettiest plant on the shelf is not necessarily the healthiest, nor the best buy.




Today you can purchase plants almost anywhere. You will find them in your neighborhood grocery store, discount warehouses, or even at a garage sale. To me, this is somewhat like going into a car dealer to buy a cake. This is not to say that the plant you pick up at the local Safeway won't be healthy, nor that a nursery plant will be. However, when you shop for plants at a nursery or garden center you are dealing with people who have grown that plant, and (hopefully) know how to care for it.
Regardless of where you do your plant shopping, there are a few things to watch for to ensure the quality of your purchase.
Take a look at the general health of all of the plants in the nursery, not just of a particular variety. If you see very many sickly looking plants, I'd recommend heading on down the road. (Better safe, than sorry)
Unlike seasonal perennials and annuals, house plants may reside in the nursery for a year or longer. During this time they may be exposed to many common house plant pests. If you find mites, mealy bugs, or any other harmful insects anywhere in the house plant department, they may have already infested the plant you like as well. I'd recommend heading on down the road. (Better safe, than sorry)
Once I have decided on the type of plant I want, I generally choose about a half dozen of the healthiest looking plants, and set them off to the side. Then I will go back for a closer examination of the different parts of each plant, before making my decision by process of elimination.
Look closely for insect pests and signs of disease.
Avoid tall spindly plants. A short bushy plant will transplant easier and is more likely to grow into a nice specimen.
The roots provide the food for the plant, and are of the utmost importance. It is essential that there is a healthy, robust root ball which fills, or nearly fills the planter. On the other hand, you don't want a root system which is compacted into the pot so densely that it is choking itself out. It is inappropriate to remove the plant from the pot yourself, but if you have doubts about the condition of the roots, you may be able to convince the nurseryman to do it for you. Normally, you can look at the drainage holes in the pot and get a pretty good idea of what is going on inside the pot. A few (but not too many) roots should be beginning to poke through the drain holes. These roots should not be dry or brittle. No roots should be showing above the surface of the soil.
The stems and trunks will determine the shape and fullness of the plant. The main stem(s) should be thick and healthy in appearance. I feel that it is better to have four or five main stems and just a few lesser branches, than to have a mass of small branches with one big stick in the middle. The stems should be spaced evenly around the plant. (Unless of course this is a single stemmed plant such as a Dieffenbachia.) Look for abrasions, breaks or other stem damage which may be slowly killing the plant.
The foliage should be clean and show no signs of wilting. The leaves should appear to be strong and healthy, and the foliage color should be bright. Check for spotting, leaf edge burn or other common plant problems. (A single burned leaf can be snipped, but if the entire plant shows signs of distress, forget it)
Flowering plants should have young, tight buds. It's nice to see the plant in full bloom, but if it is fully flowered now, you may not see it bloom in your garden until the following year. This is especially true with Rhododendrons, Azaleas and other flowering shrubs. Some perennials and most annuals have an extended blooming period, so with these plants this is not a major concern, but should be considered.

When you bring your plants home, allow them to acclimatize themselves by placing them in the shade, and then gradually bring them into their proper lighting. Be sure to keep them well watered until they are ready to plant into the ground. It is best to plant them on an overcast day.

Advice From Floyd Faucette

Floyd Faucette, our expert/consultant at large is offering some resources to ward members. "I would be glad to visit with any member of the ward or community that would like to have help in the area of soil ammendments.

Also I have fertilizers available including humate, traditional fertilizer and a organic fertilizer utilizing blood meal bone meal alfalfa meal cotton seed and micro nutrients.

There may be an interest in plant starts people want. I have several small growers I work with who would probably give us a better price than retail if there is interest."

Friday, April 3, 2009

Building a Tomato Cage



What you need:
5 ft. wide concrete reinforcing wire
Medium gauge utility wire
Bolt cutters
Cinder blocks
Green spray enamel
6 ft. wooden stakes
Mallet or hammer



Many commercial tomato cages are neither large enough nor sturdy enough to support indeterminate tomato plants. You can make your own easily enough by using 5 ft. wide concrete reinforcing wire. Unroll the wire and weight down with concrete blocks to hold in place. Use bolt cutters to cut 15 ft. of wire.


Sever the bottom row of horizontal wire along one end of the mesh. This leaves a row of tines to help anchor the cage in the soil.



Next, remove the concrete blocks and stand the wire upright. Be careful; the wire may spring up when the blocks are removed. Form a cylinder with the wire and lash the ends together using medium gauge utility wire.




The reinforcing wire will rust if not painted. Two coats of spray enamel will ensure that the cage remains rust free.


Once the enamel has dried, place the cage over your tomato plant. Wooden stakes pounded into the ground on either side of the cage will offer additional support.

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Pruning Info from Brother Gill




I was out visiting ward members the other day and noted that many have unpruned trees for the season. To get the full benefit and productivity from our fruit trees, they really need regular pruning and a spray program.


I am not a certified arborist, but I have taken several courses and have pruned my and others for many years. I am not really good on trees that people like maintained very tall, as I tend to keep the trees I prune at a more manageable height for maintenance and harvest. I would be willing to be on a pruning resource commitee to help those that are unable to prune their fruit trees. Would each of you check with friends and neighbors to see who may need this service. Fruit and berries should be a major part of our garden project this summer.


Also please let me or Dave Hebdon know if you would be willing to help out as a pruner as well.